News
The joys and sacrifices of being a great chef

Elena Arzak and Nieves Barragán cook for each other and confess their love for a profession with more upsides than downsides
In a session sponsored by the Tourism Department of the Provincial Council of Gipuzkoa, journalist Lisa Abend introduced two "courageous entrepreneurs who are two of the best Basque chefs" to the Gastronomika kitchen. The two chefs are great friends and admirers of each other.
While cooking baby squid stuffed with chanterelles and prawns in ink sauce — "one of the most popular dishes in my restaurants" — Nieves Barragán, chef at Sabor* y Legado in London, confessed that what impressed her most when she arrived in the United Kingdom was the discipline in the kitchen, as well as the discovery of a new world of ingredients and recipes from other parts of the world. Born in Santurce, she identified travel as her main source of inspiration: 'It's what keeps me learning and innovating,' she said, acknowledging that her passion for the craft remains intact. She believes that cooking has changed over the years: 'It's more relaxed and fun now; you enjoy it more,' and although her meteoric career has required personal sacrifices, 'my greatest joy is seeing how the team grows every day.'
Elena Arzak, a guiding light at Arzak*** in San Sebastián, chose a colourful dish of marinated bonito loin with ham, salt and sugar, accompanied by an original porrusalda purée, to surprise her colleague. In addition to travelling, the chef explained that ideas come to her when she is in tune with changes in society and is always taking risks. She acknowledged that, in all her years in the profession, she has learned to work a little less. She agreed with Nieves that today's kitchens 'are more relaxed; there's no shouting anymore,' and pointed to changes in the general style, and even her own, 'with fewer fatty, lighter dishes.' Her sacrifice? 'I've stolen time from my family, but in return I've experienced joys like the one I recently had in the restaurant when I received sincere congratulations from a diner who had no idea who we Arzaks were,' she concluded with satisfaction.