San Sebastián Gastronomika is the ideal stage on which to showcase this young chef and entrepreneur from Levadura de Olla in Oaxaca, Mexico. She has dedicated much of her life to working in kitchens and fields in her native San Mateo Yucutindoó, hidden in the heart of the state's Sierra Sur. Having obtained a degree in Gastronomy, she organises the annual Culinary Knowledge Exchange Forum and publishes the Gusto Local guide, with the aim of promoting and safeguarding the cuisine of her ancestors.

"Many of the ingredients typical of Mexican cuisine are not easily available in my village, which is why our cuisine is different and unique," she explained, showing the traditional stone and clay smoke kitchens and their various components: "the stove, the metate, the burner and the comal for turning tortillas, which in my village can measure up to one metre." Speaking of tortillas, she included a tricolour tortilla in her demonstration menu made with three types of corn and gave attendees some essential cooking tips: "The first flip is the most important and should be done when the edge rises slightly. The second should be done when the edge dries out. Finally, when it puffs up, you take it out,” she advised.

The rest of the menu consisted of chileatole, a corn soup made from fresh, tender corn that cannot be called corn, containing panela, roasted and ground coastal chilli and ground corn kernels as a thickener. There was also water made from corn roasted over a very low heat, which is drunk daily and is very refreshing, as well as two types of tamale. The first was the barbacoíta, made from lightly ground corn marinated with chilli, oil and water, which is useful for unexpected visitors. The second was the bean tamale, which we call guesa because it means to give and share. We make it before throwing a party to give to family and friends who come to help us. This was served with vegetable or chicken broth and beans from the pot.