Francis Paniego. El Portal del Echaurren

The ‘Desde las Entrañas’ (literally: ‘From the Entrails’) menu offered by Francis Paniego since 2013 at El Portal del Echaurren is the epitome of cuisine canaille, and has turned his restaurant into a Mecca for all lovers of this particular brand of cooking. And, of course, it has turned this great chef from La Rioja into one of its main prophets.

His star dish is ‘lamb heart tartar with frozen foie gras and vegetable fat powder’. A delicacy without euphemisms, as well as an aesthetic marvel.

Can offal be eaten raw?

Well, heart tartar is definitely offal, and it’s definitely raw. So, yes, offal can be eaten raw.


Canaille‘ dishes

Miquel Brossa presents an essay about gastronomic taboos throughout history, with offal at the very heart. He also talks about semi-drys, those gastronomic impostors.

‘Over and above what is technically considered offal in the culinary field, ‘CANAILLE’ dishes are becoming increasing popular thanks to contributions from academics such as Miquel Brossa, one of the most important gastronomes in our country and a true advocate of this type of cooking. In this work, Brossa, along with a set of top-tier collaborators, presents an extraordinary compendium of the best offal and ‘canaille’ cuisine, understood in the broadest possible terms. The essay helps define certain concepts and offers both a retrospective overlook and a modern account of the presence of these dishes in chefs’ kitchens. It also contains a hidden treasure: a series of recipes donated by renowned chefs from our country.’
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